Santa Teresa, Mal País & Montezuma - A Guide to Costa Rica’s Edge of Paradise
Is Santa Teresa, Costa Rica, a victim of its own success, or is it still the bohemian surf paradise you've seen on screen? And what about its quieter, more rugged neighbor, Mal País? At the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula lies a stretch of coastline that is as beautiful as it is remote, a place that embodies the adventurous spirit of Costa Rica.
This is your honest guide to navigating this famous, and sometimes infamous, corner of the world. We'll cover what it’s really like to vacation here, the legendary surf, the great debate of Santa Teresa vs. Mal País, and the epic journey required to reach it. From dusty roads and world-class waves to hidden waterfalls and island escapes, get ready to discover if this remote outpost is your kind of paradise.
What's the Real Vibe? Santa Teresa's Buzz vs. Mal País's Chill
A vacation at the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula is a tale of two towns, separated by a few kilometers of dusty road but distinct in their energy.
Santa Teresa: This is the vibrant, beating heart of the region. It's a long, sprawling town that has exploded in popularity, attracting a global crowd of surfers, yogis, digital nomads, and wellness enthusiasts. The main road is a bustling, chaotic mix of ATVs, motorbikes, pedestrians, and 4x4s kicking up dust. It's lined with trendy cafes, world-class restaurants, boutique hotels, and lively bars. The vibe is energetic, fashionable, and unapologetically social. While some argue it has become "overrated" and lost its rustic charm, others thrive on its dynamic energy and endless options.
Mal País: Translating to "Bad Country," Mal País is anything but. This is the old “Greenland” vs “Iceland” trick! It’s the quieter, more soulful older sibling to Santa Teresa. The road is quieter, the development is more spread out, and the focus is less on the social scene and more on the raw, natural beauty. The coastline here is rockier, with hidden coves and tide pools. The vibe is tranquil and rustic, attracting surfers and nature lovers who prefer quiet evenings and a deeper connection to the environment. It feels like what Santa Teresa was ten years ago.
Getting There: The Journey is Part of the Adventure
Reaching this remote paradise is a significant part of the experience. There are two main routes, each offering a different kind of adventure.
From San José (SJO): The Scenic Water Taxi Route
If you're flying into Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO), the most thrilling way to get to Santa Teresa is via a land-and-sea combo.
Drive to Herradura: From SJO, it's about a 90-minute drive to the Los Sueños Marina in Herradura, just north of Jacó.
Water Taxi to Montezuma: This is the highlight. You'll board a water taxi for a breathtaking one-hour ride across the Gulf of Nicoya. The boat speeds past dramatic cliffs and lush coastline, offering a stunning introduction to the peninsula.
Arrive in Montezuma: The water taxi drops you on the beach of one of Costa Rica's most enchanting villages.
From Liberia (LIR): The Overland Route
If you fly into Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport (LIR) in Guanacaste, your journey will be primarily by land.
Drive to Paquera/Naranjo: You'll drive south for about 2-3 hours to one of the ferry terminals.
Take the Ferry: You’ll drive your car onto a large ferry for a 70-minute crossing of the Gulf of Nicoya to the town of Paquera.
Drive to Santa Teresa: From the ferry landing, it's another 60-90 minute drive on paved and bumpy dirt roads to Santa Teresa. A 4x4 is highly recommended for this leg of the journey.
Montezuma: The Magical Gateway
Your water taxi from the mainland drops you in Montezuma, a destination in its own right. This small, bohemian village is nestled in a stunning cove and has a vibe all its own. It's known for its dramatic waterfalls, rich artistic community, and incredibly laid-back atmosphere. Locals affectionately call it "Montefuma," and while we can't explain why here, you'll quickly figure out the ultra-relaxed, anything-goes spirit of the place. Spend a few hours here before heading to Santa Teresa; grab lunch, explore the beach, or take a quick dip at the base of the famous Montezuma Waterfalls.
The surf in Montezuma is less consistent than in Santa Teresa, but a decent swell can create fun beach break waves at Playa Montezuma and a more challenging left-hand point break at Playa Grande, which is a 30-minute hike north.
The Surf: A Wave for Everyone
The primary reason people make the long journey here is for the world-class surf. The coastline faces the open Pacific, catching swells from all directions.
1. Playa Santa Teresa
The Wave: A series of consistent, high-quality beach breaks that stretch for miles. The sandy bottom produces A-frame peaks with fun, rippable walls and the occasional barrel. It's a playground for all levels.
Skill Level: Beginner to Advanced. The whitewater is perfect for learning, while the outside peaks offer plenty of power for experienced surfers.
Why Go: It’s the epicenter of the action. You can surf all day, then walk to a cafe for a smoothie or a bar for a sunset beer.
2. Playa Hermosa (North of Santa Teresa)
The Wave: A wide, beautiful beach with gentler, more forgiving waves. It's the go-to spot for surf schools and beginners. The waves are long, rolling, and perfect for building confidence.
Skill Level: Beginner.
Why Go: To escape the more competitive lineups in Santa Teresa and enjoy a relaxed, fun session.
3. Mal País
The Wave: The coastline here is a mix of reef and rock points that come alive on a good swell. The waves are often faster and more hollow than the beach breaks of Santa Teresa.
Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced. Reef booties are a good idea.
Why Go: For uncrowded lineups and a more challenging wave in a stunning, rustic setting.
Beyond the Surf: The Tortuga Island Day Trip
When your arms need a break from paddling, one of the best adventures you can have is a day trip to Tortuga Island. This idyllic island in the Gulf of Nicoya is famous for its white-sand beaches, crystal-clear turquoise water, and excellent snorkeling.
Multiple tour operators can take you there, but from firsthand experience, we highly recommend Zuma Tours. Their professionalism, knowledgeable guides, and well-run operation make for a fantastic day. The trip typically includes the scenic boat ride (keep an eye out for dolphins and whales in season!), snorkeling at volcanic rock reefs teeming with fish, a delicious lunch served on the island, and time to relax on the picture-perfect beach. It's a must-do experience that showcases a different side of the peninsula's beauty.
"Waves of Wisdom" – Finding Your Place at the End of the Road
Santa Teresa and Mal País are not for the faint of heart. The journey is long, the roads are dusty, and the vibe can be intense. But for the adventurous traveler, the reward is immense. It's a place of stunning beauty, incredible waves, and a vibrant culture that celebrates a life lived in connection with the ocean.
Whether you thrive in the energetic buzz of Santa Teresa or find your peace in the quiet solitude of Mal País, this special corner of Costa Rica has a way of capturing your heart. It’s a place that reminds you that the best destinations are often the hardest to reach.
Be sure to check out our Costa Rica Travel page for more surf and travel info. And grab some local style at our Surf Shop before your trip. A simple “pura vida” goes a long way here, and repping the local team is a great way to start a conversation, make friends, and show you’re here for the right reasons. Because you’re one of the good ones. “Let’s Look Good Out There”.
Plus, we have tons more blogs to help you find your spot and get it wired. Join us and tag us on social, and subscribe to our twice-monthly newsletter for event invites, news, great discounts, and all things Costa Rica surf. We aren't trying to drop in on your email or crowd the lineup in your inbox, just here to help you know what's out the back so you can time your set wave perfectly. Pura Vida!
